I went to Holbox for 2 days, stayed for 5, and left wanting more. I arrived seeking the whale shark and ended up discovering a Caribbean gem with its own magic and glow.
How to Get to Holbox
Getting to Holbox Island was the first adventure. From Cancún to Chiquilá, there are only 3 buses per day—a route infamous for pickpockets, so guard your backpack closely. Once in Chiquilá, there are 9 ferries to the island.
| Chiquila → Holbox | Holbox → Chiquila |
|---|---|
| 6:00 a.m. | 5:00 a.m |
| 8:00 a.m. | 7:00 a.m. |
| 10:00 a.m. | 9:00 a.m. |
| 11:00 a.m. | 10:00 a.m. |
| 12:00 p.m. | 11:00 a.m. |
| 1:00 p.m. | 12:00 p.m. |
| 2:00 p.m. | 1:00 p.m. |
| 4:00 p.m. | 3:00 p.m. |
| 5:00 p.m. | 4:00 p.m. |
| 7:00 p.m. | 6:00 p.m. |
| 9:30 p.m. | 8:00 p.m. |
Holbox Village. Photo by dolanh.
The Whale Shark: Holbox’s Pride
My first impression was delightful. Holbox is still a town without large hotels or restaurants, but it has a cosmopolitan vibe. Its veins are sandy streets filled with bicycles, golf carts, locals, and expats. Their pride is the whale shark—the planet’s largest and gentlest fish.
The meeting point of the Caribbean Sea and the Gulf of Mexico birthed Holbox’s biodiversity. Dolphins, flamingos, turtles, pelicans, iguanas, crabs, and even crocodiles are among its hosts.
Lobster Pizza. Lobster dishes are abundant and relatively affordable. Photo by Holbox.gob.mx.
Where to Stay in Holbox
My home in Holbox was Tribu Hostel, a vibrant space created by a couple of travelers who couldn’t bring themselves to leave the island. With spacious common areas and a welcoming atmosphere, it was easy to find companions for adventures and friendships.
Tribu Hostel. Photo by TribuHostel.com.
“Today the water springs forth in my heart. It bathes me in the freshness of a song.” – Humberto Ak’abal.
What to Do in Holbox
From the hostel, I signed up for the whale shark tour. We left early by boat, but a storm loomed. Just before arriving, the captain reassessed the weather, and we turned back. The next day, luck was on our side—the weather was perfect, though my first snorkeling experience with a giant creature felt equally thrilling and intimidating.
After 90 minutes skirting the island, we spotted the first whale shark. Suddenly there were 3, then 10, then a massive swarm of hundreds. Nervous, I plunged into the water. After some awkward flailing, I found myself surrounded by giants focused on devouring plankton. I saw many up close, but the image of a colossal whale shark gliding its majestic length beneath me is forever etched in my memory.
“In the water, I see my face. Not the one you see. Water is not a mirror. My pure self is beyond what I am.” – Humberto Ak’abal.
I lost track of time until the fifth and final night arrived. Under a full moon, I craved the sea and sand. When I reached the beach, I gasped—the water shimmered. As I bathed in the warm ocean, hundreds of blue bioluminescent sparks glowed around me. Maybe it was plankton or simply the magic of this bioluminescent Holbox.
Cover photo by Christopher William Adach. CC.
